Just in time for Bulgaria’s entry into the EU next year(2008), the wines get a whole lot better.
Damianitza continue to do a great job down in the far south west of the country where Melnik is the impressive local red variety. The Redark range sees mainly French oak, sometimes slightly too much of it, while the less expensive Uniqato range, of which the Uniqato Rosé 2005 made from lightly oaked Melnik is a standout, sees mainly Bulgarian oak, like so many Bulgarian wines. I asked another producer whether there were now any good Bulgarian coopers. “No,” he said rather too emphatically.
Uniqato Rubin 2005 is another good wine with a velvetiness that would have been unthinkable a few years ago, made from the scented Bulgarian 1940s crossing of Nebbiolo and Syrah. With a memorable name like that it could catch on.